Wedding Ensemble for a Bride (Umtshakazi)

Description

For the Thembu and other Xhosa-speaking peoples, the beauty, translucence, and weight of layers of beaded ornaments have spiritual dimensions. Shiny, reflective materials are associated with enlightenment, purity, and access to the ancestral realm. Thembu beadworking flourished among young women in the 1940s and 1950s, but declined in the 1960s. Each of the items in this wedding ensemble was lovingly made. Many are notable for their creative reuse of materials: for example, the bracelet from which a handkerchief is suspended; the armlets made of twisted brass wire; and the beaded teaspoon necklaces, which were intended to make the marriage sweet.

Provenance

Collected by Joan (Broster) Cremer (née Clarke) (1916-2009), in the Transkei, South Africa, between 1952 and 1966 [note in curatorial file]; sold to Lionel Finneran and Marion Philips Finneran, South Africa, 1986; consigned to Alan Brandt, New York, N.Y., from 1986-87 to 1989 [see correspondence in curatorial file]; consigned to Gary van Wyk and Lisa Brittan, Axis Gallery, New York, N.Y., in 1997; sold to the Art Institute, 1998.

Wedding Ensemble for a Bride (Umtshakazi)

Thembu

1950s

Accession Number

151361

Medium

Cotton cloth, glass beads, mother of pearl beads, thread, and leather

Dimensions

H.: 114 cm (44 7/8 in.)

Classification

costume

Museum

The Art Institute of Chicago

Chicago, United States

Credit Line

Purchased with funds provided by the Woman's Board of the Art Institute of Chicago; partial gift of Axis Gallery (Gary Van Wyk and Lisa Brittan)